Big-Apple Pies

The Pitch

Wait, what?  Another pizzeria review?  Another Saint-Henri restaurant?  At the risk of being repetitive, I have stuck to restaurants around where I live since the COVID-19 lockdown's beginning.  As for pizza, is there a more quintessential takeout dish?

Tonight I opted for Adamo to cater a dinner I was hosting at my building's communal garden.  The Saint-Henri pizzeria has built a name for itself while being barely noticeable from the street, save for the line of patrons usually hanging around its storefront.

tagged:  WAIT IN LINE

The Mood

Opened in 2015 by Saint-Henri entrepreneur Tony (Bones) Campanelli, Adamo follows along the lines of the latter's eponymous café/sandwich spot right across the street.  Both establishments put forth a rustic, artisanal Italian brand, focusing on counter-style service while eschewing the delivery option.

The small space looked markedly different today compared to my previous visit a couple years back.  Gone are the communal table and foosball set by the corner.  The semi-lockdown mode replaced those with traffic cones, a handwashing station and piled-up flour bags and tomato crates – all in the name of safety.

The Food

Adamo's menu may be limited in length, but it sure is large in scope.  The concept here is New York-style pizza, offered by the slice or pie; and boy are those HUGE!  Prices could seem steep at first glance – $3.75 for a slice, about $25 for a pie – but given the jumbo 20-inch diameter, they're totally reasonable in fact.

True to form, the dough here is thin and crisp with enough sponginess to be able to fold a slice and eat it with one hand.  The tomato sauce is sparse but present, letting the cheese and toppings stand out.  I particularly loved the very "Montreal" smoked meat pizza featuring pickles and mustard – bizarre on paper but it works!

Cheese Pizza

Pepperoni Pizza

Smoked Meat Pizza

tagged:  GOOD FOR SHARING

The Service

The interior setup made it easy for staff and clients alike to practice social-distancing measures.  The single file of patrons outside lead to an interior queue marked with the now-all-too-familiar "stand here" stickers on the floor.

The line moved pretty fast, with a cashier jumping back and forth between the payment and pick-up sections of the counter.  Behind him was a trio of pizzaiole flinging dough in the air, topping pies, shoving them in ovens and finally boxing them.

The Verdict

So far I have only picked up whole pies from Adamo on both my visits, although I am very tempted to drop by and grab a slice on-the-go some day.  Everything from the size and quality ingredients to the crust and taste makes this joint my favorite by-the-slice pizzeria.

If only Montreal had such an option back in my clubbing days twenty years ago.  Lord knows I must have eaten a lot of 99-cent garbage in those days!

tagged:  SOLID