Verdun on the Map

The Pitch

Verdun is another one of those neighborhoods which went through rampant gentrification over the past two decades.  During this time, a slew of interesting dining options dotted the sidewalks of what came to be known as Promenade Wellington, the neighborhood's main commercial lane.

As far as I can tell, the area's first upscale restaurant which garnered acclaim was renowned chef Fisun Ercan's Su, a modern, refined Turkish restaurant.  The venture – which ultimately fell victim to the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 after 14 years of operation – was celebrated by locals but not much beyond.

Around the same period, a newcomer would finally put Verdun on the international map.  To nab a table at Beba – which last year made The World's 50 Best Discovery list – on this Saturday, my wife had to reserve over a month ago!  Even with a booking, we had to make our way through the small line of hopeful diners huddled by the small restaurant's entrance, most of which were being politely turned away!

tagged:  BETTER RESERVE THE WAIT

The Mood

A chef's pedigree, word of mouth, the local press and influencers can create buzz and a following for a restaurant among locals.  What something like The World's 50 Best does is draw out-of-towners.  All three parties surrounding us tonight were visitors from an English-speaking neighbor (Ontario, New York…) – I wasn't intently eavesdropping, I swear!

Beba's interior follows a classic palette of brown and dark green, with mirrors along one wall giving a sense of extra space.  The twenty-or-so seats at the tables are complemented by a dozen spots at the opposing bar, which extends into an open kitchen at the end.  Couples of all ages made up tonight's crowd; no sooner did a seat open up than a new patron filled it.

tagged:  ANGLO CROWD

The Food

Beba's cuisine is billed as that of Spanish and Italian settlers in Argentina.  Not knowing what that refers to, I found the menu was an amalgam of Italian and terroir du Québec.  The menu's stature matches that of the restaurant's interior: small and to the point.  For food, starters are followed by intermediate dishes ending with mains, with each section containing 3-4 choices.

With items priced between $21 and $33, the middle section provides a handy alternative for budget-conscious diners.  A long list of drink options starts with cocktails, beers and ciders, going through an expansive wine list leaning towards French and Italian – but also other – vintages, and ending with amari, dessert wines, eaux de vie and others.

I liked the touch of writing alcohol percentages on the cocktail list (a first for me), but it made me go for the strongest option, sitting at a daunting 30%!  An alcohol-only concoction of whisky, cognac, bourbon, brandy and bitters, it gave me the best night of sleep in years later that night!

With a lot of pork on the menu (which I do not eat), I did not poke at any of my wife's dishes.  My starter of mackerel canapés was a tad fishy for my taste but I loved the hint of horseradish to cut through it.  A radicchio salad we shared was quite generous for the smaller of the two sizes, and was fresh, bright and crunchy.

Next up was my main dish, which was stellar.  Broken up pieces of grilled rabbit were served on the bone and simply finger-lickin' good – yes, I used my hands.  Served on a garlicky, herbed lentil stew, this mammoth plate may have contained an entire rabbit!

To wrap up, we shared an aprium – apricot/plum hybrid – tart, which was fluffy, almond-y and tarty.  I would have enjoyed a slightly sweeter dessert, but I was nonetheless in good hands thanks to a helping of Amaro Nonino, one of many bitter digestifs on the menu.

The Service

The body of staff as a whole was very present and filled the room tonight, both literally and figuratively.  The intimate setting does not afford any personal space, which allows for patrons to see and interact with waiters, bartenders and cooks, and vice versa.

One chef kept checking in on a couple tables, while our waiter seemed to strike deep conversations with at least one table around us.  His knowledge of the menu and attention to detail were of great use.  He was quick to point out dishes containing pork when the menu did not explicitly list it as an ingredient.  He also waived a drink off the bill only because it took a couple minutes too long to arrive.

tagged:  LIFE OF THE PARTY LOVE THE ATTENTION WE AIM TO PLEASE

The Verdict

Beba is among a dozen of new restaurants which are breaking the mold of how we perceive fine-dining establishments.  Those are typically clustered around central or busy neighborhoods with a hip or commercial character.

Not only is Beba in the more (historically) working-class borough of Verdun, it also eschews the main thoroughfare of Wellington.  Instead, it occupies a corner one block up in a strictly residential setting, which matches its intimate convivial vibe.

Founded by two brothers and carrying their grandmother's nickname, it is easy to see why Beba achieved so much success.  The unique blend of soigné-yet-accessible and hearty fare combined with sharp-yet-warm service earned it well-deserved praise.  The fact that it draws a wide tapestry of diners from both here and abroad has made Verdun a destination for well-to-do gourmands.

tagged:  SOLID

4

Price per person:  $65.50