Nomadic Food & Culture

The Pitch

Some restaurant owners go unnoticed and operate completely behind the scenes.  Others make their presence felt to the point that the restaurant feels like an extension of their identity and personality.  Such is the case at La Khaima, a longstanding North African restaurant lying on Mile-End's Fairmount Avenue.

A quick glance at the eatery's Instagram account places owner Atigh across the page's name, profile picture and many of its posts.  Tonight's invitation to try La Khaima was no different; it came from him personally both by email and Instagram DM.

The Mood

La Khaima's interior is unique in every way possible.  It is made to resemble a khaima – tent in Arabic – with colorful Saharan motifs covering the ceiling and cushions lining the floor where one must take off their shoes prior to sitting.

The locale is split into two spaces: the main room, which feels more open, followed by a second one with divided sections, evoking the majlis – sitting area – for added privacy.  The main area was a little quiet when my friend and I showed up at 7PM but filled up soon enough.

The crowd was very French "from France", a demographic known to dine later than their North American counterparts.  Owner Atigh was naturally on site, greeting, chatting it up and imprinting his joie de vivre and buoyancy over the ambiance.

tagged:  CHATTERBOX CORNER

The Food

Although more-commonly associated with Moroccan cuisine, couscous holds a special place in the Mauritanian home and kitchen.  According to our host, it is often eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner in various preparations.  La Khaima's menu reflects this habit; the only main dish listed is couscous in three permutations.

For the most complete sampling of everything on offer, we were served the house's table d'hôte starting with juice, soup and bread, continuing to couscous and ending with tea.  The homemade hibiscus juice with a hint of mint and lemon is refreshing and delicious.  It is in fact bottled and distributed under the Atigh's label.  The m'berberli – lentil soup with various spices – is warming and fragrant but a little watery.

For mains, we opted for a shared platter of all three couscous varieties.  My favourite was the shredded chicken stewed with lemon and olives followed by the beef in a date sauce; these two contrasted well, pitting bitter/sour flavours against sweet/savoury.  The third couscous was a vegetarian option with eggplant, potatoes, carrots and chick peas swimming in a mango stew.  The veggies were nice and crunchy, but I found the sauce a little flat.

Of course, the house's hot sauce was there to add a kick of mild heat and pickle flavour!  Finally, no Maghrébin meal is complete without a few cups of sugary mint tea, served according to tradition by raising the teapot very high to create a layer of foam at the surface.

tagged:  TABLE D'HÔTE

The Verdict

More than a restaurant, La Khaima is a celebration of Bedouin/nomadic culture.  The décor, vibe and occasional live music/comedy acts attest to that.  How coincidental that my dining companion tonight revealed to me his intention of living the nomadic lifestyle just as we were driving to La Khaima; but I digress…

Open for over twenty years now, Atigh's restaurant has held a steady, if quiet presence, attracting a curious Plateau/Mile-End crowd seeking a novel, exotic, Saharan experience.

Price per person:  $28